Bidco c-56 joint sealant how to install
Sealants - seal joints, seal surfaces
1. Sealants for bathrooms
A generally high level of humidity and splashing water in the shower and bathing area: Edge and transition joints as well as inside corners in the bathroom have to withstand a lot. This is where silicone sealants are used, also known as bathroom or sanitary silicone, often with mold-inhibiting additives. These are permanently elastic, resistant to medium acids and alkalis and very stable to heat, UV radiation and weathering. However, you should not connect these so-called acetic acid-curing silicones directly to masonry (plaster, concrete) or PVC profiles. Such silicones are also not suitable for acrylic bathtubs. For this purpose, neutrally crosslinking silicones are available that do not attack plastic surfaces.
Please note: Check and, if necessary, replace the silicone joints in the sanitary area every two to five years.
You should also not use acidic silicones for grouting natural stones (e.g. marble, granite, etc.). Here, plasticizer-free natural stone silicones on a neutral cross-linking basis are available. These do not attack the material and are specially developed for granite and natural stones that are sensitive to discoloration.
Note: Natural stone silicones are suitable for both indoor and outdoor use (observe manufacturer's instructions).
If an elastic joint is very deep, use so-called joint underfill profiles: On the one hand, this improves the adhesion of the joint sealant to the joint flanks and, on the other hand, reduces the loads on the filled joint when movements occur, as well as the overall consumption of sealant.
In order to permanently protect bathroom walls and floors under ceramic coverings against damage from moisture penetration, they must be properly sealed. You can do this by applying a water-repellent shower sealant to the entire wall and floor area in the splash water area. Additionally attached sealing collars on pipe passages and sealing tapes in the corners also ensure 100 percent watertightness.
Find out more about surface sealing in the bathroom in the following BAUHAUS guide:
2. Sealants for walls, ceilings and floors
Acrylic sealants (e.g. so-called parquet-laminate sealant) are suitable for connecting joints or for filling cracks in wooden floors (parquet, laminate, wooden floorboards) but also for floor and skirting boards and door frames made of wood. These are not quite as elastic as silicone, but can be painted over and wallpapered over (paints and varnishes do not adhere to silicone). In addition, joints sealed with acrylic can be sanded well.
You can also seal superficial cracks on walls and plastered surfaces, damaged areas in drywall construction as well as joints or connections with low expansion stress without the effect of water with acrylic (e.g. special painter's acrylic). Alternatively, MS polymer sealants are suitable, which combine the positive properties of silicone and acrylate: They can also be painted over or wallpapered and can also be used almost universally as sealants (and adhesives) on almost all surfaces - for example for the assembly of insulation and drywall panels or when building facades and ceilings indoors, for window sills, steps, glass panes, metal plates, panels, fascia or skirting boards.
3. Sealants for kitchens
In kitchens (e.g. to seal transitions between worktop and wall and / or the contact surface of the sink on the worktop or to seal cut edges) it is important to use silicones that have no fungicides, i.e. mold-inhibiting additives, and no other ingredients, that pose a risk to food or drinking water (e.g. special kitchen silicone).
Find out more about a self-built kitchenette in the following BAUHAUS guide:
4. Sealants for the exterior, roof and basement
Balconies, terraces or flat roofs with rain accumulation receive a highly elastic, frost-proof, UV-resistant and water-repellent layer with paintable waterproofing. The easy-to-apply sealing coatings are also suitable for smaller repairs outdoors.
Mineral building materials are also sensitive. So if you want to close permanently elastic joints between terrace slabs and a plastered wall, concrete or clinker brick, you should use neutral-curing silicone (e.g. special construction silicone). When using sealants outdoors, make sure that they are UV- and weather-resistant and frost-proof.
Use bitumen-compatible sealing compounds for joints, connections and openings on chimneys and pipe penetrations, for small repairs or for closing cracks with little movement on cardboard roofs. Bitumen (lat. Earth pitch) itself is a petroleum product and therefore practically impermeable to water. With a repeated bitumen coating, you can create a water-blocking seal for exterior basement walls, foundations, on cardboard roofs or bitumen coatings, for example. Bituminous sealing compounds and membranes are also suitable for garden sheds and tool sheds, carports, pavilions, canopies or balcony sealing. The bitumen or polymer bitumen sheets are either self-adhesive, welded or laid with a special bitumen adhesive.
If the cellar is under water after heavy rainfall, it is often not properly sealed. So-called sealing slurries are suitable for subsequent sealing from the inside, which, together with a previous primer, filler and final restoration plaster, make the basement permanently waterproof again.
Find out more about the renovation of basement rooms in the following BAUHAUS guide:
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