How to make Airsoft Moerser ammunition

The product SG550 (G&G) is currently not available from stock. Unfortunately, we are not aware of a delivery date, but will be published here as soon as it has been confirmed. Would you like to be informed by email as soon as this product is available again? If you would like to be informed about a changed stock level, use the following form:
Muzzle velocity (0.20g): approx. 380 fps (1.33 Joule)
The specified value was measured by us and is updated regularly. Deviations of +/- 10% or more must be expected.

This article falls under the Weapons Act: The purchase is only permitted from the age of 18 (contract and copy of ID required, settlement permit C for foreigners)!

The SG550 from G&G was developed in collaboration with TMT and SwissArms and was able to be implemented based on the original construction plans; the result is very convincing. The AEG largely corresponds to the original and feels that way, even the smallest details have been adopted. For example, the locking lever can be removed and the position of the gas nozzle can be adjusted. The lock housing is made of sheet steel, the hand guard and the piston are made of glass fiber reinforced plastic. The precision is very high and the reliability is also very impressive.

A battery is not included in the scope of delivery.
A charger is not included in the scope of delivery.
Where the gas pipe and the gas rod are on the real SG550, the airsoft version houses the battery, which is placed in a pipe. In order to achieve a good performance, we recommend 9.6V batteries, we have slightly modified the SG550 type battery especially for us.

Body: sheet steel
Thread: 14mm CCW
Hop-up: adjustable
Shot mode: semi and fully automatic
Magazine capacity: 30 rounds
Length: 1005 mm
Length (folded): 780 mm
Inner barrel length: 509 mm
Thread: 14mm CCW
Motor: Short
Connection: Mini Tamiya
Caliber: 6mm
Gearbox version: 3 Custom
Weight: 3.7 kg
Shipping weight: 4.5 kg

A battery is not included in the scope of delivery.
A charger is not included in the scope of delivery.
Established in Taiwan in 1986, G&G is an experienced designer and manufacturer of airsoft replicas and accessories. From the first replica, your goal is innovation and high quality in order to meet even the most demanding customer needs. Today they continue their legacy by developing new types of unique, eye-catching airsoft guns with the highest quality control.

With the AEGs (AEG = Automatic Electric Gun; the 's' in the AEGs only stands for the majority and not for an additional meaning) there are some important points that should be observed. In the following you will find important information and notes, please take a few minutes to read them through. If you have any further questions, please do not hesitate to contact us.

The right AEG
There are now a large number of different manufacturers and an almost endless selection of different models. We have made it our business to have the most interesting of them in our range. We have had the best experiences with the manufacturers KWA, G&P, VFC, Ares, G&G and King Arms. The AEGs from these manufacturers impress with their very good workmanship, very decent performance and also with a very high level of reliability. These manufacturers are also very active in terms of new and further developments. Most of the manufacturers mentioned meanwhile also offer a cheaper line for beginners and players with a limited budget. These models offer a very interesting price / performance ratio, without having to forego perfect workmanship, smooth functioning, decent performance and high reliability.

The models from Chinese manufacturers (A&K, AGM, Army, Cyma, Galaxy, Jing Gong, Kalash etc.) can score points with a high muzzle energy, a very attractive price / performance ratio and often full metal models, but they also have some disadvantages compared to them Brand AEGs. They have higher manufacturing tolerances, which is why the precision is usually somewhat lower, the rifles do not shoot quite as smoothly and the workmanship is also not on the same level. It can happen that AEGs from Chinese production are delivered from the factory with small scratches, are a bit dusty or the packaging can show dents. Of course, we have already made a preselection and deleted problematic models from the range or not even included them. At this point it should be mentioned that the Chinese models are usually delivered with a battery, but this has a lower performance than the batteries we sell individually. Some other dealers also supply a charger, but we don't do this for one very important reason: these chargers are dangerous! The chargers mentioned have no function whatsoever to detect whether a battery is fully charged. For this reason, these devices simply continue to charge even when the battery is full, which then leads to overcharging and damages the battery, in severe cases this can even lead to a fire or injuries as a result of leaking battery acid. Likewise, the battery is not charged correctly with such chargers and the performance is significantly lower, which often leads to a gearbox jam (explained in detail below), which can be very annoying and significantly reduces the fun of the game. A microprocessor-controlled charger does not cost a lot of money and also saves a lot of money in the long term because the batteries simply last a lot longer, while at the same time it is easy on the nerves because there are significantly fewer problems.

The right battery
The fundamental question here is whether to buy a NiMH (nickel metal hydride) or a LiPo (lithium polymer) battery. According to the current status, there is an increasing tendency towards LiPo, as these batteries are more compact with the same storage capacity and have advantages over NiMH in terms of performance and durability; they can also deliver higher currents. Basically, you can't go wrong with either type of battery, as both types have proven to be very effective. It must be noted, however, that there are also some dangers with LiPo batteries, so they must not be exposed to high levels of sunlight and no mechanical force must act on them. Also very important: a suitable charger must be used for both NiMH and LiPo. A LiPo battery must never be connected to a NiMH charger! Please note that all batteries have a limited service life and lose capacity and performance over time. The service life of the battery can be extended by handling it properly, storing it correctly and charging it properly. Old batteries should be replaced regularly. Batteries do not belong in the household waste under any circumstances and must be disposed of properly! In all electronics stores there are appropriate disposal points where you can dispose of old rechargeable batteries and batteries free of charge.

It is very important that you choose a battery that also fits the AEG in terms of performance. Most AEGs use 9.6V NiMH or 7.4V LiPo. In the case of relatively weak AEGs with a muzzle energy of less than 1 joule (328 fps), 8.4V NiMH batteries are often used. Please note that 11.1V LiPo should only be used with suitable models, suitable AEGs have a so-called Mosfet (field effect transistor). If no Mosfet is installed, a spark occurs every time the trigger is operated, which leads to oxidation of the contacts - or to put it simply: the AEG sooner or later gives up the ghost because no more contact can be made and therefore with the When the trigger is actuated, no more current flows. In addition to the number of volts (V), the capacity is always given in mAh (milliampere hours). The more volts you have, the more powerful the battery is (e.g. higher cadence). The more mAh you have, the higher the capacity and the more you can shoot until the battery is empty.

When buying the battery, the appropriate format (size) and the plug available from AEG should be taken into account. The most common are so-called Mini Type Plugs (= Mini Tamiya) and Large Type Plugs (= Tamiya). For a few years it has also been increasingly evident that T-plug plugs, which are also called Dean, are being used more and more frequently. These have a lower voltage loss than the Tamiya connectors and are used in particular for tuning. G&P now almost exclusively uses these T-Plug connectors, which, by the way, are also available in mini and normal. For most AEGs, under the product description, there is a "matching article" section, which usually lists the appropriate battery. However, if you have any questions or if no battery is listed, you can of course contact us, we will be happy to help and will ensure that a suitable battery is updated immediately.

We recommend that you always have a suitable replacement battery with you. Some games are more intense than expected or take a little longer than planned. In such cases, sufficient electricity is just as important as sufficient ammunition. It is also very important that a battery is replaced in good time. If you notice that the performance is decreasing, please always replace the battery with a fully charged one immediately and do not shoot until nothing changes - this will otherwise very quickly lead to a Gearbox Jam (will be explained in detail below), which often cannot be remedied easily. Please also note that batteries constantly lose a little voltage, so batteries should never be stored empty, otherwise this can lead to deep discharge, the battery will be irreparably damaged in such a case. We therefore recommend charging the battery after it has been used and charging it again before using it again, as it has already lost some voltage in the meantime.

The right charger
Like the battery, the charger also plays a very important role. As already written above, the charger should definitely be microprocessor-controlled, this saves a lot of unnecessary trouble and, due to the longer service life of the battery, costs in the long term. All chargers offered in our range are microprocessor-controlled and have a high level of quality. We also ensure that inexpensive chargers are available from stock at all times and that you don't have to spend too much money on a suitable charger. The chargers always indicate whether they are suitable for NiMH or LiPo batteries, this is very important when choosing the charger. We also have some chargers that can charge both NiMH and Lipo, please refer to the respective item descriptions. In many cases, expensive chargers also have an integrated discharge function, which in combination with the charging function that starts immediately afterwards is a very practical thing and can extend the life of the battery. However, we clearly advise against pure discharge devices, as these lead in many cases to deep discharge, which can irreparably damage the battery. Of course, we are also available for all questions relating to batteries and chargers.

Power consumption
We are often asked how many hours can be played with a battery. Rather, the question should be how many shots can be fired with it, since not every player shoots exactly the same number of times. In so-called Mil Sim games in particular, there is very little shooting and in many cases one battery is enough for a whole weekend without any problems. At the same time, however, in a somewhat degenerate game in which shooting is almost continuously fully automatic, the battery is empty within a very short time. As a guide it can be said that around 1 to 1.5 rounds can be fired per mAh (the term is explained in more detail above for the batteries). A well-charged battery with 1500mAh should be sufficient for around 1500 to 2000 shots. However, this information is very much dependent on the power consumption of the AEG, the stronger the AEG, the higher the power consumption. It should also be noted that the performance of batteries is very limited in cold temperatures in winter.

Proper handling
Careful handling of the AEG is very important, it ensures a long service life and avoids problems. Too harsh handling, falls, soiling, inadequate care or other improper handling can damage the AEG or impair its function. Any damage caused by improper handling is not covered by the warranty. With most models (e.g. M4, AK47) the lock is intended exclusively to be carefully (!) Pulled back a little if necessary in order to be able to adjust the Hop Up Unit. If the lock is operated in Hollywood fashion, there is a very high risk of subsequently holding the lock individually in your hand; at the same time, a spring is usually overstretched and part of the locking mechanism has broken off. This is then not a guarantee case. The same applies to models in which the lock is only used for decoration (e.g. MP5). Also, do not go into a stream, river or lake with your AEG and do not use the AEG in heavy rain. Water and metal (= rust), as well as water and electricity (= short circuit) are not particularly recommended combinations.

Regular maintenance
In addition to proper treatment of the AEG, professional care is also very important and ensures a long service life, avoids malfunctions and takes very little time. In contrast to a firearm, there is no soot residue on an airsoft weapon, so the AEG does not have to be cleaned after each shooting. Always keep the AEG clean and dry. However, if the rifle becomes soiled (dirt, mud, dust, etc.) despite all care, the soiled parts must be cleaned. Only take the rifle apart as far as you can without tools and put it back together yourself. If the barrel is dirty, it must be cleaned, otherwise it can lead to blockages. Most AEGs come with a cleaning stick. Wrap a small piece of kitchen paper around the end of the cleaning stick and wet it with a little silicone oil. Just be economical with the silicone, not much is needed. Also make sure that the paper cannot peel off. Then insert the end of the paper into the barrel from the front. It is important that you do not press too hard, otherwise the Hop Up Bucking or the nozzle can be damaged. So be careful and stop immediately if you feel some resistance, then step back a few inches and make a note of the spot. Then pull the cleaning rod back towards the end of the run, then back to the point before the resistance was felt. Repeat this process 3 times and then pull the rod out completely. If the paper is completely dirty, you should wrap fresh paper and repeat the process. Under no circumstances should you use brushes or similar items intended for cleaning firearms!

In addition, the Hop Up Bucking (also called Hop Up Rubber) should be regularly moistened with a little silicone oil so that it does not dry out and become brittle. The Hop Up Buckung is located inside the Hop Up Unit, that is the point where the ball leaves the magazine and is guided into the barrel. You can simply drop or spray some silicone oil on this spot. It should be noted here that a small amount is absolutely sufficient. If too much silicone oil is applied, the AEG will be somewhat imprecise for the first few shots after treatment, but this effect will be short-lived. After around 50 shots at the latest, the AEG will show its usual precision again.

No gun grease, gun oil, WD-40 or other mineral oil based products
Under no circumstances may gun grease or gun oil be used, as this will damage the plastic parts. WD-40 and other sprays and lubricants containing mineral oil must also not be used; only use silicone oil!

No repairs on your own initiative
If the AEG is defective, you must under no circumstances attempt to repair it on your own. Please contact us in such a case. If you try to repair your own, the guarantee will expire! We also do not carry out repairs on products that have already been tinkered with.

If there is a problem, don't just keep shooting
If you discover a problem (e.g. a strange noise or no BBs come out of the barrel) you should not just keep shooting and hope that the problem will resolve itself. Try to find out what could be causing the problem. Most of the games have participants who have very good technical knowledge.So feel free to ask for help if you cannot identify or fix the problem yourself. If the problem cannot be solved by a competent person, someone is sure to be present who has a replacement AEG with him just in case. If you ask him kindly and handle it carefully, that person will surely provide this replacement AEG.

Use suitable ammunition
The right ammunition is very important! Use good quality ammunition. Likewise, do not use any ammunition that has already been used. Bad quality ammunition or ammunition that has already been used can damage your AEG and has a very negative effect on accuracy. We ensure that the ammunition from our range meets high standards. We therefore recommend that you purchase your ammunition from us. If you buy the ammunition elsewhere, please make sure that it comes from well-known brands and is of a high quality. Be skeptical if you do not know the brand on offer, the ammunition is deformed, filled into improvised sacks or in any other way makes you suspicious. Use enough heavy ammunition, up to about 330 fps (1 joule) we recommend 0.20g, with stronger rifles we recommend heavier ammunition in order to achieve good precision. Basically, we recommend that you test a few different weights to find the best possible result. Basically: heavier ammunition is more precise, but has a shorter range. For the sake of nature, always use biodegradable ammunition!

Set the Hop Up Unit correctly
Make sure you take some time to set the Hop Up Unit correctly. The trajectory of the ball is stabilized by means of a twist, the trajectory becomes more stable, a greater range is achieved and the precision is noticeably increased. In contrast to the rifled barrel of a firearm, the twist in an airsoft gun is caused by the hop-up unit, whereby pressure is exerted on the hop-up bucking by means of an adjusting screw, which causes the desired twist. Take a few minutes and carefully adjust the Hop Up Unit. This works best if you set up a target at a distance of around 20 meters, do a few test shots, and observe the flight path. If the trajectory shows an arc, the Hop Up Unit has to be adjusted. In this case, make a small correction and make a few more test shots. Repeat this process until you have achieved a stable and as flat flight path as possible without a visible arc. Please note that the Hop Up Unit is often misaligned due to vibrations and shocks, so check regularly whether the desired result is achieved and make corrections if necessary. By the way, never set the Hop Up Unit too hard. If you do this anyway, it can lead to constipation.

We generally advise against tuning and modifications, as this represents an intervention in a functioning system and can significantly reduce the reliability of the AEG. This also leads to the expiry of the guarantee and can lead to safety defects or malfunctions. For this reason, we do not carry out any tunings or conversions and, due to the immense effort, we cannot fix any problems that have arisen during tuning, conversions or repair attempts.

It may certainly be very attractive to have a particularly strong or particularly precise AEG that is clearly superior to that of the other players. In doing so, however, it is important not to forget the immense amount of time and material required and how often repairs and maintenance have to be carried out. With tunings, the exact result can only be guessed in advance and it often has to be improved because the parts used did not lead to the desired result. There are also many stumbling blocks that can lead to expensive damage and, due to the complexity, often inconspicuous details are overlooked, which can then have a major impact on performance or reliability.

We often find that many beginners buy a very cheap AEG to get started and then want to modify it over time, although the respective AEG is completely unsuitable as a basis for tuning due to the high manufacturing tolerances and sometimes not too high-quality components. At a time when all regularly purchased AEGs had a muzzle energy of less than 300 fps and were almost entirely made of plastic, tunings naturally had a completely different meaning and were almost an absolute necessity to increase the reliability of the AEG so that a The whole weekend could be played through without problems and this could keep up with the performance of the AEGs of the other players. A metal body or a RIS rail system was already a small sensation at that time and attracted attention. In the meantime, however, the vast majority of AEGs are already being manufactured by the manufacturers in such a way that even the wildest dreams of the master tuners of the time are far exceeded. Instead of modifying a cheap AEG with a lot of effort, it pays off very quickly to put this money into a good AEG. An example: most AEGs from KWA already have an output of almost 400fps from the factory and still shoot 1200 BBs per minute (= 20 BBs per second!), Are made almost entirely of metal, are incredibly reliable and extremely robust.

Precision run
In contrast to the tunings mentioned above, the installation of a precision barrel can make sense, as you can achieve a noticeable improvement in precision with relatively little effort. Nevertheless, the installation should only be carried out by a professional, since one or the other mistake can be made here, which would then have the opposite of the desired effect. In particular, the correct installation of the Hop Up Unit and the Hop Up Bucking should not be neglected under any circumstances.

It should also be borne in mind that the installation of a precision barrel can always entail an increased risk of clogging and therefore the choice of the right ammunition is essential.

AEGs mainly use precision barrels with a diameter of 6.03mm, barrels with a diameter of 6.01mm are also not uncommon. More important than the diameter is the accuracy of these barrels. The manufacturers PDI and Prometheus enjoy an excellent reputation, but these Japanese-made barrels have a very high price. A very good alternative to this are the precision barrels from MadBull, which have an excellent price / performance ratio. But here, too, the following applies: if no correspondingly high-quality ammunition is used, the Hop Up Unit is not correctly set or because Hop Up Bucking is old and brittle, acceptable precision will not be achieved despite the precision barrel.

Gearbox jams
Every regular airsoft player is confronted with this term sooner or later (usually earlier). The reason for this is that it is by far the most common technical problem and most of it is caused by one's own misconduct. The phenomenon occurs when the trigger of the weapon is not pulled all the way through until the shot has been released. If you pull the trigger before the shot is finally released or if you only tap the trigger briefly, the power supply to the motor is interrupted. This does not drive the mechanism, which is based on a type of gearbox, and the gearbox gets stuck. The error also occurs if the battery has not been charged properly or if it weakens during a game due to discharge. It is of fundamental importance to always pull the trigger all the way through and to always use well-charged batteries of good quality, otherwise gearbox jams will almost inevitably occur. By the way, an effective method to prevent a gearbox jam is to use an AEG with a built-in mosfet, with these AEGs a gearbox jam is no longer possible, as the mosfet only triggers the process as soon as it has accumulated enough current to complete the shot cycle.

Fixing Gearbox Jams
In most cases it is enough if a strong and fully charged battery is attached to the AEG. Then set the fire selector lever to fully automatic and press the trigger. It is important that the trigger is not pulled too long, otherwise the fuse can blow if the Gearbox Jam does not come off. If the Gearboxjam does not solve with the described method, you need to contact us, we will help you to solve the problem. Incidentally, some AEG models also have a spring release function, which can be activated in the event of a gearbox jam to release the jam.

In the case of the rifle, the term blowback refers to the automatic repeating of the breech and, in the case of the pistol, the slide. This effect is very impressive in a pistol and at the same time an elementary functional component. With an AEG, however, this is just a gimmick given the current state of the art, you can't really impress anyone with it. We therefore advise against making any existing blowback mechanism a purchase criterion.

FPS / joule
FPS stands for feet per second and describes the exit speed of the ball when it leaves the barrel, this value can be divided by 3.28 to convert the result into meters per second (m / s). In the airsoft area, this reference value is always determined with 0.20g heavy ammunition, since the result is lower for heavy ammunition and higher for lighter ammunition. As an alternative to this information, the muzzle energy in joules is also very often used. In contrast to the speed, which varies depending on the weight of the ball, the energy always remains identical even with different weights. Especially where the maximum power or strength of an airsoft gun is legal, the value in joules is always used. In addition to legal regulations (e.g. Germany, Italy, England, France) there are also restrictions on the maximum muzzle energy or muzzle velocity at many clubs and playing fields. It is therefore very advisable to inquire about any regulations of friendly clubs or nearby playing fields before buying to ensure that you do not buy an AEG that is too strong. In Switzerland the limitation of 350fps (plus tolerance of 10fps) for fully automatic shooting is very widespread, in Austria the limit is often 360, 380 or 400fps, in Belgium it is 360fps.

The different values ​​in fps, m / s and joules can often be very confusing, especially if different weights are used for the fps or m / s. In case of ambiguity, you can easily google for an fps calculator and in this way you will find a practical calculator very quickly with which you can convert the various values ​​and compare them with one another very quickly.

operation manual
Read the operating instructions before use, they contain important information about handling the weapon and problems can be avoided. Contact us if something is not clear or is not adequately described.

safety instructions
  • Every weapon must always be considered loaded until one is convinced otherwise.
  • Always wear suitable protective equipment, especially the wearing of suitable glasses is essential. Point out other participants' omissions and, if necessary, ask them to protect themselves properly.
  • Make sure that the area used during an exercise or a tournament is cordoned off and that no third parties are in the danger area. Always contact the property owner and the police beforehand.
  • Point the weapon only at targets that you really want to hit.
  • The trigger finger must be stretched and leaned against the housing as long as the aiming device is not aimed at a target. The finger may only touch the trigger immediately before the shot is fired.
  • Make sure you can control the direction of the muzzle even if you trip or fall.
  • Never shoot or aim at animals or third parties who are not participating in training or competitions or who are not properly protected.
  • BBs may still be in the barrel after removing the magazine, remove them carefully.
  • Never point the barrel of the gun at yourself.
  • Do not handle in a room where other people are present.
  • Always use a suitable bag or case to transport the weapon, do not carry the weapon open with you. Carrying a weapon in public is not permitted.
  • Always keep the weapon unloaded in a safe place that cannot be accessed by unauthorized persons (children, untrained persons, etc.).
  • Never put down a loaded weapon.
  • Only pass on unloaded weapons to other people.
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